How To Handle (miniature schnauzer prices) Traveling With Your Labrador Retriever PDF Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 18 September 2007
How To Handle Traveling With Your Labrador Retriever


Since your Labrador may sometimes accompany you when you travel, it is important to indoctrinate it into riding in the car while it is still a puppy. Start with short trips, such as local errands, and increase from there. The dog should always ride in the back seat and should be taught to lie down while the car is moving. Young puppies often do well to ride in their crates during any extended car trip.

For trips of more than an hour, do not feed the dog just prior to departure. Like people, many dogs experience motion sickness. Should your dog be prone to vomiting in the car, it will require medication from your veterinarian whenever you are planning a long drive. Most dogs
outgrow this as they get more accustomed to car trips. Plan on stopping at least every two hours, at which time you should walk the dog to give it some exercise and a chance to relieve itself. Remember that the dog will be in an unfamiliar terrain, so always have it on leash to prevent an unexpected bolting.

While the car is moving, allow a small amount of fresh air to circulate inside by opening the windows approximately 2 inches (5 cm) from the top. This should be sufficient, as large doses-of air from fully opened windows can cause eye, ear, and throat irritation.

Caution: In the summertime, provide several small amounts of drinking water during the trip to prevent dehydration. When stopped, never leave a dog in a parked car during the heat of the day. Even with the windows slightly lowered, the internal temperature of the car can soar in just minutes and be fatal to the dog.

If you are planning an extended trip requiring overnight lodging, make reservations in advance at a hotel or motel that will allow pets. Travel guides or your local automobile club should be able to supply you with a list of places that accept animals.

Boarding Your Lab: If you are to be away and must leave your Labrador behind, the most satisfactory arrangement would be to leave the dog with a friend or relative with whom the dog is familiar. Barring this, you have several options. The breeder from whom you purchased your dog may have the facilities to house it on a temporary basis. Alternatively, you can check your local papers for "foster care" advertisements by local people who are willing to look after pets in their home for a limited amount of time. Should you consider this method, be sure to visit the site on several occasions with the dog to familiarize it with the people and location and to verify that this is a suitable environment for your pet. Commercial kennels offer boarding services for those with no other options. Most kennels are clean and tend to all your pet's basic needs, but Labradors are very people-oriented and tend to miss the companionship they are used to when placed in boarding kennels. Should this be necessary, however, check that the kennel is accredited by the American Boarding Kennel Association.

Introducing Training To The Young Labrador Retriever


You can begin some elementary retrieving exercises at eight weeks or so, and your Labrador will most likely love the game and look forward to it each day. To teach the basic mechanics of the fetch (run out, pick up the object, return the object to the master, and release), begin by placing the puppy on a 10-foot lead. Take a favorite toy or a ball large enough not to be swallowed, dangle it in front and above the dog's head to gain its attention, and toss it 5 to 6 feet in front of you. Precede your command with your dog's name. For example, say, "Jake, fetch!" As he races for the toy, follow behind him. Make sure the lead stays loose and does not snap shut and frighten or hurt him (and perhaps permanently sour him on retrieving).

If he picks up the toy, praise him encouragingly. Should he merely eye or paw the toy, make him pick it up by shaking it in front of him, repeating "Jake, fetch!" Once he has grasped the toy, walk backwards to your beginning spot. Coax him to follow you by motioning him toward you using your hands and fingers. When he arrives back, get the toy from his mouth by commanding "Out!" and gently pulling it loose. Now is the time to give him a lot of praise and affection - not during the exercise, although encouragement can be helpful.

At such a young age, the emphasis in this and all types of exercise is on fun, not on performance. Improvement in response should naturally come with familiarity. As the puppy masters the game, vary it. Keep the dog guessing. Try to remain in position and not move out toward the toy. Later, you can attach a longer lead and extend the distance of your throw, or throw the toy sideways. Any Labrador retriever worth its name will take easily and eagerly to this game.

It is recommended that you play with the puppy often and consciously make an effort to get down to its level. Standing upright, humans can be quite an imposing sight for a puppy. Sitting or lying on the floor, they are no longer towers but friendly companions. Giving a puppy some eye-to-eye attention will go a long way in cementing the human-dog bond.

Because Labrador retrievers make good swimmers as adults, some misinformed people think this gives them the liberty to dunk young puppies into any available pool of water. A Labrador is a natural swimmer, but the dog needs to learn the fundamentals before being expected to feel at ease in the water. When a puppy's first exposure to the water is being thrown or forced in, the shock may make it dislike and fear the water throughout life. Many potential field dogs have been ruined by improper or overzealous training.

The first introduction to the water can begin while a puppy is quite young (three months is a good age). A puppy should be able to master the mechanics very quickly, especially if "shown
the ropes" by some older dogs. The owner should always be nearby, should trouble arise. It often helps the dog feel at ease if the owner wades into the water with it on the first dip.

Ponds or lakes, with their easy entries, are best for training water dogs. The slick tiles and steep sides of a pool are often unmanageable for the dog, and many drownings have occurred when an exhausted dog was unable to climb out of the water. Similarly, a young puppy is not strong enough to manage a rough ocean surf, but should be encouraged to play
along the shoreline in a sheltered area of shallow water.

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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 18 September 2007 )
 
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